WHO IS CLODAGH MCKENNA?
Born in Cork, Clodagh McKenna describes her cooking as: ‘A fresh, modern take on Irish food with a focus on seasonal and local produce.’ Seafood is at the core of her cooking, influencing everything from the menus in her restaurants to her bestselling cookbooks. Her TV appearances, including the series Fresh From The Sea and Clodagh’s Irish Food Trails, are watched by over 15M in the USA. Now living in London, following stints in Italy and France, Clodagh’s cooking has many influences but Irish ingredients are her passion.

Your grandfather and your uncle were both fishermen. How did that affect you?
I grew up in Cork and our family has always lived beside the water so I really appreciated the value of having fresh local fish from a very young age. Fishermen have a tough job, especially on the Irish Sea and the Atlantic. They’re heroes in my mind. For the two TV series I made based around the sea, I spent a couple of months meeting fishermen and getting out on the boats with them. I was cooking the produce but also showing the challenges they face and the fact that so much of our seafood is now exported. Despite being an island nation, we sometimes turn our backs to the sea and don’t appreciate the amazing fish we have available. Sustainability requires a change in mindset about the way you shop – that goes for every kind of food, but particularly for fish. It takes time to do the homework but a good fishmonger is always happy to hear our requests for local
and in-season seafood.

How does the food culture in Irish fishing villages and towns compare with London?
In Ireland, we’ve such incredible access to fish; it’s so easy to get fresh fish daily. In London, it’s more of a struggle. You’ve really got to find a fishmonger you can trust. Things that we have that you can’t get in London? Incredible seaweeds, which I love using in my cooking. Otherwise, our waters are quite similar but I do think our shellfish – especially our crabs – are the best in Europe. When I’m away, I miss getting to cook at home. The first International TV chef and restaurateur tells us about her love for the sea – and the people who work on it

MY FAVOURITE 
Favourite quick snack?
Fresh crab mixed with a little bit of horseradish, lemon, cayenne pepper, crème fraiche and fresh tarragon. It is beautiful with
sourdough toast or sprinkled over avocado and salad.

Favourite childhood chef?
I love Alice Waters, the American TV chef and activist known for promoting fresh, organic food grown locally.

Favourite place by the sea?
Co Kerry and west Cork. I just love that rugged coastline, it’s very natural and untouched there.

thing I do when I get back to my little coach house in London is bake bread and go down to my local fishmonger to pick something up for a quick supper. Fish is faster than any takeout you could ever buy – and it’s incredibly good for you.

How far back do you and the RNLI go?
My sisters and my uncle have been involved in the RNLI and they all sail, so I’ve known of the RNLI since I was born. But I hadn’t realised the challenges they face every day until I joined a lifeboat crew in the series Fresh from the Sea. That ‘drop everything’ mentality – leaving from wherever they are for a shout – it’s a major commitment. Young fishermen face a really tough job now. The RNLI allows them to feel safer and to carry on the great tradition of fishing in Ireland. And they’re even on the Thames doing incredible things. I’d walked over the bridges but had never thought to look out for a station on the river.

Are you a water person through-and-through then?
Yes, I am! I fish and I sail and I’m very attached to the water. Even though I spend half of my life travelling for work, if I’m not around the sea for a while I miss it terribly. I think my number one piece of advice for anyone going to sea is always wear your lifejacket. I noticed when I was making the series that a lot of fishermen unfortunately don’t wear them and we really have to convince them to put them on.
Interview: Anna Burn | Photo: Photocall Ireland