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Swimming in style

The evolution of the humble swimsuit tells an interesting story of wider social conventions …

Daft costumes are the order of the day when it comes to a festive fundraising dip for charity but, usually, our beach resorts are a sea of more practical fashions.

We may think of today’s culture as label-obsessed but it was our Georgian ancestors who began the passion for swim fashion. Sea bathing became the rage for its health benefits and its freedoms.

By the Victorian 1850s, competitive swimming clubs became popular – strictly for gentlemen. They also formed lifesaving teams – so ‘skivvies’ and proudly exposed bare chests were probably the style of early beach rescue.

In contrast, 19th-century women wore bathing gowns – long dresses with weights sewn into the hems. Such garb may have been cumbersome but was also a fashion statement – though hidden from the gaze of men by the use of bathing machines. The drive for modesty also encouraged the long-sleeved one-piece for men.

In 1907, synchronised swimmer Annette Kellerman was arrested for indecent exposure because her swimsuit showed her arms, legs and neck! However, the form-fitting style proved popular and it wasn’t long before swimwear shrank further. Bikinis appeared in the late 40s, named after the weapon-testing site at Bikini Atoll – presumably because of their explosive effect. Men’s shorts and trunks covered progressively less too, as the 60s and 70s brought in a more permissive, and sun-worshipping, society.

The eye-catching red and yellow gear of lifeguards spawned mass-market and designer imitations in the 90s. Clothing became more specialised per sport and more technical in fabric and construction. Meanwhile, surfing over-shorts grew longer and baggier again, in a kind of reverse rebellion.

In 2007 an American lifeguard hit the news when he refused to wear Speedos for his swim test, in favour of more protective wear. Our lifesavers also started to notice an increase in the number of people bathing in fuller attire for either cultural–religious reasons or as a result of greater awareness of skin cancer risks.

These days, both male and female RNLI lifeguards can be seen in full wetsuits, rash vests, polo shirts, long shorts and, on cold days, fleece jackets and trousers. Of course, there are solid reasons for the design of this kit – it’s made for outdoor work and lifesaving – but have we gone full circle?