The Isle of Man is an unusual location whose community is inextricably linked to the sea – and the RNLI

Set in the midst of the Irish Sea, encircled by all five nations of the UK and RoI, the Isle of Man (IoM) is actually a collection of islands. Man itself is 33 miles long and 13 miles wide and has just over 80,000 inhabitants. The much smaller Calf of Man has only two permanent residents while St Patrick’s and St Michael’s are uninhabited.

The IoM’s unique physical situation, flora and fauna are mirrored by its unusual legal status. It is a Crown dependency but not part of the UK or EU. Its head of state, titled the Lord of Mann, is an hereditary position held by the British monarch. With its own government, currency and postage stamps, the Isle is independent of UK involvement other than in matters such as foreign affairs, citizenship and defence.

The islands’ parliament is the Tynwald and dates back over 1,000 years to when the region was attacked, and then settled, by Vikings. Each July, a festival is held to commemorate these roots. Denmark directly ruled this territory for a period, but the official languages of the IoM are Manx Gaelic and English, not Danish, reflecting the influence of subsequent migrations. Famously, the Isle’s emblem is the ancient triskelion or three legs.

Legends abound here. Even today the IoM is said to be inhabited by fairies, known as the little folk or ‘themselves’, while the Moddey Dhoo, the ghost of a black dog, is said to wander Peel Castle. An old Irish fable tells how the IoM was formed when the giant Finn McCool grabbed some earth and threw it into the sea. However, the origin of the Isle’s name is possibly Manannan, the Celtic sea god. A less fearsome creature is the Manx cat. This tailless domestic feline can be traced back over 300 years.

Tax, TT and Trent class

Traditional Manx industries are fishing, farming, brewing, tourism, and smuggling – the latter taking advantage of the IoM’s tax laws. Low levels of corporate and personal tax, including no capital gains or inheritance tax, benefit equally the ordinary locals and the many wealthy celebrities who move here. But this system is only affordable thanks to a special arrangement with the UK Government to share VAT (purchase tax) revenue, which is now set to change.

An unusual community formed by less willing migrants during the Second World War comprised ‘enemy aliens’ held behind barbed wire in former bed and breakfast accommodation. Today, the IoM population temporarily and joyfully soars each year thanks to the TT Races. Following the Gordon Bennett Car Trials of 1904, the Auto Cycle Club approached the authorities about running a motorcycle race and, in 1907, the TT was born. This is an important date in the RNLI’s calendar too as sales of the charity’s merchandise flourish. For 2 weeks every Summer, motorcyclists and fans flock to the Isle and the 37¾ miles of public roads that form the infamously perilous circuit.

The local seascape is just as treacherous – buffeted by wind, with plenty of submerged rocks and frequent fog, IoM waters have seen all too many shipwrecks, including the loss of the entire Manx fishing fleet in 1787. The wreck-strewn seabed is nowadays a popular haunt for divers but commercial vessels, pleasurecraft, fishermen and other sea and beach users can still get into difficulty.

It is no wonder, then, that the 100 miles of coastline are home to five lifeboat stations. Situated at Douglas, Port St Mary, Port Erin, Peel and Ramsey (and until 1922, Castletown), there’s much to keep the volunteers busy. Andy Clift, until recently RNLI Divisional Inspector for the area, explains: ‘Ferries and commercial ships cross the Irish Sea past the IoM and every day. Fishing is not so prevalent. But sailing is being actively promoted with the development of a number of marinas – plenty of yachts stop here on passage.’

Andy continues: ‘It’s quite a strategic location for the RNLI, with the islands acting like a large aircraft carrier for lifeboats. All the Manx lifeboats have been involved in major searches, including the Solway Harvester fishing disaster of 2000, but rescue scenarios are so diverse that crews need to be trained to deal with every eventuality.’

Preservation of life

A certain Sir William Hillary came to the Isle of Man from England in 1808 following the break-up of his first marriage. A lifeboat station had already been established at Douglas in 1802 with a lifeboat built by Henry Greathead and funded by the Duke of Atholl. But Sir William was shocked to witness HMS Vigilant foundering on Conister Rock in 1822 and attempted his first rescue with two rowing boats crewed by volunteers.

Sir William imagined a national lifeboat service. Through some very influential contacts, including King George IV and antislavery campaigner William Wilberforce, his dream became a reality. He went on to establish the National Institution for the Preservation of Life from Shipwreck in 1824, later to become the RNLI. His voluntary ethos lives on today.

Every January there is a remembrance service to commemorate Sir William’s death in 1847 and he is buried in St George’s Churchyard in Douglas. Amanda Barton’s statue of Sir William overlooks Douglas Bay and there are two memorials to him. The Tower of Refuge built for shipwrecked sailors in Douglas Bay in 1832 was also thanks to his efforts.

Although Sir William was heroic in both the Army (earning his title) and lifeboat service (earning two Gold Medals for Gallantry) he was less so in his private life, which was scandalous then and remains intriguing today. But whatever tribulation occurred at home, he is remembered most for his remarkable vision as the founder of a world-leading lifesaving charity.

David (Richie) Richards, Port St Mary Coxswain

‘I have been researching my ancestors and have a substantial tree with Manxmen hanging from every branch – literally in one case. The last man to be hanged on the IoM was my first cousin, four times removed! It gives me a tremendous feeling of belonging to live and work in the same place as my forebears and a sense of pride that I am Manx with these ancestral anchors holding fast in the sands of time.

‘My great grandfather, Willie Clucas of Rushen (pictured below), was one of the founder crew members of Port St Mary lifeboat station, which opened in 1896. Willie was a third generation sailmaker when he volunteered on the James Stevens No.1, provided from the legacy of a Birmingham man. Willie continued serving until 1914 when the advent of steam began to bring the commercial sailmaking industry to a close. He became Master of several local trading schooners, and then a rigger for the IoM Steam Packet Company.

‘I was born in 1958 and Willie died in 1960 and I am assured by my aunt that he saw me regularly during those 2 years. This gives me a feeling of such continuity whenever I am at sea in the current lifeboat. It is remarkable to realise that he would have passed the same headlands and bays over 100 years ago for the same reasons I do today. I wonder what he would make of our Trent class!

‘It is a great comfort to have the support of my other half when I’m at sea. I am extremely lucky to have an understanding partner who can put up with me leaving at short notice and, mostly, still seems pleased to have me back! Throughout the Institution, partners assist in various capacities and I would like to thank fundraisers and supporters everywhere for their indefatigable assistance in helping to provide crews with the best possible equipment and training.’

Patrick Crowe, RNLI Senior Corporate Fundraising Manager

‘I now live in Bournemouth, Dorset, but the IoM was a wonderful place to grow up and still holds a very special place in my heart. My parents live there and I go back at least once a year. My Manx heritage even runs to my baby boy: he is called Finlo, a fine Manx name.

‘One of my proudest moments was being able to tell my parents that I had got the job at the RNLI. The charity was such a big part of the community when I was growing up and my sisters and I were frequently drafted in to fundraise. I am hugely proud of the contribution my father, Neil, has made to the RNLI. He was Treasurer of the Port St Mary Branch for 10 years and since 1991 has served as Chairman of the Gough Ritchie Trust, which funded the lifeboat there.

‘I have a slightly more embarrassing connection with the current Second Coxswain, Mick Kneale. In my early teens, I was crewing for my friend, Fergus, in the local regatta, in a Mirror dinghy called Thor’s Thunderbolt. We hit and holed Mick’s beautiful National 18, Maid Mary. We were called all sorts of specialist nautical terms, as our boat shouldn’t have been where it was. Unfortunately Mick had just sold his boat to none other than my friend Fergus’s father!

‘I have always been in awe of the courage shown by RNLI crews – my grandparents lived next to Sir William Hillary’s house, Fort Anne, on Douglas Head and my grandfather would tell me how Hillary built the Tower of Refuge after the St George was wrecked. Those stories and hearing the maroons going up through my childhood inspire me as much today as they did then.’