This Spring saw the official reopening of the RNLI Grace Darling museum in Northumberland, after years of redevelopment. Was it worth the wait? Carol Waterkeyn pays a visit to find out

In 1938, a museum opened in Bamburgh to celebrate the life and heroism of a local young woman, Grace Darling. The museum was shown off in a new guise on 4 March 2008 when RNLI Trustee Ron Neil came to declare it well and truly open once again.

What a wonderful day it was for all those who had worked so hard to turn a dream into reality. The RNLI’s project manager Maureen La Frenais explains: ‘We realised that the old museum was no longer in a fit state to protect the valuable exhibits it housed – it really needed to be replaced. We knew we had a fantastic collection but it required extensive conservation work and much better interpretation to bring Grace’s and her father William’s story back to life again for a modern audience. But what a massive task!’

Funding was a great concern – the £1.5M required could not be taken from donations intended for saving lives. But applications to the Heritage Lottery Fund, Northern Rock Foundation and Foyle Foundation were eventually rewarded and their grants and many others added to the efforts of local fundraisers. In time, evacuation of the exhibits was followed by partial demolition of the building and the appointment of a museum manager and a learning officer. They worked firstly from their homes, then in the midst of the construction site.

Eventually the artefacts were moved back in, including the eponymous Grace Darling coble. After 2 years at the north of England regional museums’ store at Beamish in Co. Durham, her journey culminated in a heart-stopping lift by crane to install her.

On the scene

My own visit took place during a windy January. If you’ve never visited this part of England, I urge you to go. The scenery is spectacular and, as you near Bamburgh itself, the castle is majestic. The little town is full of historic character and I could easily imagine Grace and her family visiting from their remote lighthouse home. The museum is well signposted and overlooks St Aidan’s church, where Grace was christened and later buried. There is a wonderful memorial to Grace in the churchyard and another in the church itself.

Inside the museum, there is something very moving about the items on view. Many are very personal: letters, drawings, clothes, presents from friends and household items. I was particularly drawn to the different paintings of Grace and wondered which was the closest likeness – the real Grace.

Then there are the artefacts collected from the seabed. Through these and the museum’s informative displays, you learn of the demise of the steam ship Forfarshire. On passage from Hull to Dundee in 1838, she was hit by a terrible storm and smashed on Big Harcar Rock in the Farne Islands.

That night Grace was on watch at the lighthouse. In the early hours of 7 September she saw the wreck. Waking her father, they decided to launch their small coble, a fishing boat, to look for survivors. Having rowed through treacherous seas, they rescued nine people from the rocks. While Grace’s father helped them onboard, Grace skilfully worked to keep the boat close and steady. There followed a terrible journey back to the lighthouse in the open boat. When you see for yourself the size of the coble and then look at Grace’s tiny dress hanging in the museum, you wonder how on Earth she managed it.

Small with a big heart

The museum itself is stunning in both design and content. Like Grace, it is small, perfectly formed and has a big heart. Tardis-like in its capacity, it is amazing how much has been packed in while retaining a spacious feel. The main, circular room is reminiscent of the interior of the lighthouse modelled in its centre, while a large picture window illuminates upstairs. There is a noticeable warmth in the atmosphere even though the site is supposed to be haunted. Perhaps it is Grace herself showing her approval by taking up residence? During my visit I read the visitors book. I have to agree wholeheartedly with this selection of comments: